|
Let’s start with a few statistics. Italy constantly fights with France
for the title of the world’s biggest wine producer. Italy ranks number
3 in per capita wine consumption. As in many other European countries,
Italians are drinking less wine, but better wine. Italy exports about
10% of its wine production to the United States. It is home to almost
one million registered vineyards, and more than one thousand grape
varieties, the majority of which are found nowhere else on earth.
Italy is the king of microclimates: 40% of its territory is mountainous
and another 40% is hilly. Such territory can often be ideal for
vineyards, even if of little value for other agricultural products. The
country is surrounded by five bodies of water; the Ligurian Sea in the
northwest, the Tyrrhenian Seas in the southwest, the Ionian Sea and the
Mediterranean Sea in the south, and the Adriatic Sea in the east. All
these geographical factors mean that vineyards a few kilometers apart
may yield vastly different wines.
Did you know that Italy is divided into twenty regions? Each and every
one produces wine, its own distinctive style or usually styles of wine
that accompany its regional food specialties. Almost all regions
produce wine for export to North America. Of course some regions are
doing better than others, but in many cases regions that were once
known for their bland, and perhaps baked wines, have turned the corner
and are now making some excellent wines. Because the public is not yet
generally aware of these wine-making regions, there are still bargains
to be had. Keep posted, I’ll be making specific recommendations.
Italy can be divided into three major sections: Northern Italy, sharing
a border with four European countries (France, Switzerland, Austria,
and Slovenia), Central Italy, and the South, traditionally the poorest
part of Italy.
Northern Italy is composed of eight regions: The Aosta Valley, Piedmont
(whose capital is Turin), Lombardy (whose capital is Milan),
Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, The Veneto (whose capital
is Venice), Emilia-Romagna, and Liguria (whose capital is Genoa).
Because wines from the first and last of these regions are quite
difficult to find in North America, we are planning articles on only
six of these regions.
Central Italy is composed of six regions: Tuscany (whose capital is
Florence), Umbria, The Marches, Abruzzi, Molise, and Latium (whose
capital is Rome). We are planning at least one article on each of these
regions.
Southern Italy is composed of six regions: Apulia, Campania (whose
capital is Naples), Basilicata, Calabria, and the islands of Sicily
(whose capital is Palermo) and Sardinia. We are planning at least one
article on each of these regions.
Each article will discuss the region and its distinctiveness. We’ll
talk about the wines and the foods that characterize the region. We’ll
taste at least one wine as we are preparing the articles, and sometimes
refer to memorable wines that we have tasted months or years
previously. When possible, we’ll taste the wine with an imported
Italian cheese that typifies the region.
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY While we have communicated with well over a
thousand Italian wine producers and merchants to help prepare these
articles, our policy is clear. All wines that we taste and review have
been purchased at the full retail price.
Now back to the subject of Italian wines.
Wine Classification.
Italy has legally defined four wine classifications that presumably
help the consumer make a selection when faced dozens of unfamiliar
choices. In 1963 Italy devised the Denominazione di Origine Controllata
(Denomination of Controlled Origin) wine legislation largely modeled on
the French legislation. The goal of the DOC system was to classify and
regulate wine production in given geographical areas and help these
areas develop their own specific identity. Don’t get confused, in
addition to designating the Italian wine classification system, DOC
also designates the third classification level within this system.
While most wine producing countries have instituted official wine
classifications, arguably the Italian system is the most controversial,
some would say the most abused, and the most ignored by the wine
producers themselves. Look for these classifications on the wine label.
But be warned, a higher classification does not always mean a better
wine.
VdT stands for Vino da Tavola, translated as table wine. These wines
may be made from any grape, or mixture of grapes, anywhere within
Italy. Usually table wines are pretty ordinary, and in Italy they are
often served directly from the barrel. And yet on occasion VdT wines
are excellent and priced accordingly. Why should these lowest-rated
wines be better than their supposedly fancier competitors? Some
innovative producers didn’t want to be told by government officials how
to make wine (see DOC below). In essence they said, “We’ll do it our
way and let the market decide.” The classic examples of outstanding VdT
wines are Super-Tuscans, often going for $50 or more a bottle.
IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, which may be translated
as Typical Geographic Indication, in other words a wine that typifies
its specific location. This classification was created in 1992 to
provide a level of wine above table wine, and below DOC, described
next. The IGT classification defines the wine’s geography but not its
composition or production method. Once again, don’t jump to conclusions
about the wine’s quality. I clearly remember drinking an exceptional
IGT served at a public Italian wine dinner. It was a Rosso di Toscana
IGT Croce di Bibbiano “Santo Chiodo” Super Tuscan that unfortunately is
unavailable in my area. It costs more than most DOC and DOCG wines (see
below) and in my opinion, this wine is worth it.
DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be
translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin. Each and every region
has at least one DOC wine, for example, the Apulia region has 25 DOCs
while its neighbor Bascilicata has only one. A given DOC defines the
permissible grape or grape varieties as well as numerous details about
the grape growing and wine making process. The first DOC wine dates
back to 1966. About one fifth of Italian wine is classified DOC or
better. Perhaps you can guess from this statistic that a DOC on the
label is no guarantee of quality.
DOCG stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Guarantita,
which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed
Origin. Please realize that this letter G on the label is no guarantee
of quality. For example, the first red wine to achieve DOCG status (in
1980), the Tuscan Brunello di Montalcino is quite highly regarded. In
contrast, the first white wine to achieve DOCG status (in 1987 after
considerable debate) the Albana di Romagna from the neighboring region
of Emilia-Romagna is not highly regarded at all. I have never tasted
this particular wine, but the best comment I have ever read it is that
this wine is pleasantly fruity. In my opinion, such weak praise hardly
justifies its top-of-the-line official status. Perhaps what is required
is a DOCGG classification (I’ll let you do the translation.) |